Jill Finely shares a precise, repeatable method for making bias tape that helps home sewers finish edges with professional flair. Her approach emphasizes accuracy, fabric-friendly techniques, and efficient layout so you can quickly bind garments, quilts, or home projects.
By following a logical sequence and preparing the right tools, you can produce bias tape that lies flat, resists stretching, and blends seamlessly with both delicate silks and sturdy denims. This guide translates her best practices into clear steps anyone can follow.
| Width | Fold Method | Best Fabric | Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/2 inch | Single fold | Cotton, linen | Lightweight edges, facings |
| 3/4 inch | Double fold | Cotton, broadcloth | Necklines, armholes |
| 1 inch | Double fold | Quilt cotton, flannel | Patchwork, home décor |
| 1 1/4 inch | Double fold | Medium-weight twill | Coat edges, bag straps |
| 1 1/2 inch | Double fold | Heavyweight canvas | Shaping, tailored garments |
Cutting Fabric on the Bias
Accurate bias starts with cutting strips on a 45-degree angle to the grain. Use a clear quilting ruler, a rotary cutter, and a stable cutting mat to keep widths consistent and edges smooth.
Jill Finely recommends marking the bias line lightly with a fabric pen or chalk before cutting. This habit reduces miscuts and ensures each strip folds evenly when pressed.
Joining Strips for Continuous Bias
To minimize waste and maintain smooth tape, learn to join strips using a diagonal seam. This technique creates one long bias strip from a compact folded fabric layout.
Steps for Accurate Joining
Place strips right sides together at a perfect 90-degree angle, draw a diagonal line, sew along the line, and trim the seam allowance. Press the seam open to keep the bias tape flat and reduce bulk at the join.
Pressing and Folding Techniques
Pressing is the backbone of neat bias tape. Use a sturdy ironing board, a damp pressing cloth for delicate fabrics, and steam to set folds without distorting the strip.
From Strip to Tape
Fold the strip in half lengthwise, align raw edges precisely, and press. For double-fold tape, fold each edge to the center crease first, then fold again to finish the enclosed seam. Use pins or clips to secure folds while you work.
Machine Application and Stitching
Stitch bias tape with a consistent seam allowance to keep the tape lying flat. Start at a side seam or less visible area to hide the starting thread securely.
Jill Finely suggests easing the tape around curves and checking alignment from the right side frequently. A narrow presser foot and a steady hand help maintain smooth, professional results on both straight and curved edges.
Everyday Tips and Best Practices
- Use a rotary cutter and clear ruler for consistent strip width.
- Mark the bias line before cutting to stay on grain.
- Press seams open before folding the tape to reduce bulk.
- Clip or pin the tape in place before topstitching to prevent shifting.
- Test on a fabric scrap to confirm your fold and width match your project.
FAQ
Reader questions
How wide should I cut my fabric strips for 1/2 inch bias tape?
Cut your strips 1 inch wide on the bias to achieve 1/2 inch finished bias tape after pressing and folding.
Can I make bias tape with knits or stretch fabrics?
Use lightweight knit fabric cut on the bias, finish with a narrow zigzag or serger, and handle the tape gently to avoid stretching the fibers.
What is the best way to join bias strips without bulky seams?
Join strips at a 90-degree angle with diagonal seams, press them open, and trim any excess seam allowance to keep joins smooth and thin.
How much extra fabric do I need for continuous bias cutting?
Add about 1 to 2 inches for seam allowances and alignment when calculating yardage, then multiply by 1.5 for a safe margin.